Galib Gassanoff, the visionary behind Institution, is revolutionizing the fashion landscape by infusing contemporary designs with rich cultural narratives. His latest collection, a poignant tribute to his Georgian-Azerbaijani roots, showcases a profound respect for traditional craftsmanship and the empowering history of women in the Caucasus. Gassanoff's unique approach involves collaborating with Azerbaijani weavers to integrate ancient hand-knotting techniques into his runway pieces, transforming age-old artistry into modern luxury. This deliberate fusion not only elevates his designs but also serves as a crucial effort to preserve fading crafts, offering an alternative vision for the future of fashion that prioritizes artistic value over commercial mass production.
Gassanoff's third runway presentation is a carefully curated experience, limited to just 30 distinct ensembles. This deliberate constraint allows him to concentrate on storytelling and conceptual depth rather than commercial viability. For him, the runway is a sacred space for showcasing innovative ideas. He continues his tradition of spotlighting the intricate crafts and profound history of Karajalar, his Georgian birthplace. His design philosophy is to let these traditional elements speak for themselves, even when recontextualized—carpets become skirts, paired unexpectedly with cardigans, maintaining their original essence. The collection also features surrealist interpretations of craft, like double-faced wool sculpted into avant-garde outerwear and hand-stitched shoelaces artfully combined to form skirts.
The genesis of this collection dates back nine months, deeply rooted in Gassanoff's childhood memories and ancestral heritage. With a background split between Georgia and Azerbaijan, he found inspiration in the textile communities of rural Azerbaijan, particularly those known for their carpet-making traditions. He specifically collaborated with local women, employing their time-honored hand-knotting methods on vertical looms for three standout pieces in his show. This collaboration is not merely about inspiration; it's a concerted effort to prevent the extinction of these intricate crafts. By involving these artisans, Gassanoff provides them with a platform for expression and inspires younger generations to embrace and learn these valuable skills.
Beyond the artistry, Gassanoff's collection also carries a significant historical narrative. He highlights the period in the early 20th century when Georgia and Azerbaijan gained independence from the Russian Empire, establishing the first democratic republic in the Caucasus. During this progressive era, women achieved unprecedented freedoms, including the right to vote and hold parliamentary positions as early as 1918—predating many European nations. A notable figure from his own village, Peri-Khan Sofiev, became the first Muslim woman democratically elected to government. Gassanoff weaves her story into the collection, exploring the lives, perspectives, and liberation of women from that region, making each garment a testament to their strength and independence.
Gassanoff’s passion for ethnography and clothing history underscores his design approach. He believes that looking back reveals a time when everything was natural, handmade, and craft was paramount. In an age of rapid industrialization, he views this human touch as a disappearing luxury, something vital to protect. He prides himself on valuing fabrics intrinsically, sketching, tracing patterns, cutting, and tailoring many of his garments himself. He masterfully blends historical and modern tailoring, ensuring his references are honest and that the history and craft behind each piece are transparently conveyed, creating truly unique and meaningful fashion.
Gassanoff expresses his passion for manipulating shapes without disrupting their essence. Influenced by Soviet-era sculptures depicting women with structured forms, he often exaggerates shoulders or hips in his designs. The materials themselves largely dictate the final shapes; he works collaboratively with communities, allowing their contributions to inform the designs. This season, he aims to elevate his runway show without overdoing it. Free from external commercial pressures, he enjoys creative autonomy, enabling him to work with rigid, heavy fabrics and intricate shapes. The collection, focused on the craftswomen he collaborates with, is poised to set a high standard, showcasing his vision for limited, value-driven production that champions handmade artistry.
